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(Page 2 of 7) As shoaling waves approach the shore, wave celerity (speed) slows, the wavelength decreases, and wave height increases. Once waves begin shoaling the infinitesimal height assumption of linear theory is often broken. In addition, the wave is steepened in such a way that linear wave theory can not accurately describe the wave. Guza and Thorton (1980) demonstrated that although these violations to linear wave theory occur, linear theory still does an adequate job ( ± 20%) of describing many of the behaviors of breaking waves. Linear theory implies that all formulas governing wave behavior are first order (no variables are raised to a power higher than 1). Non-linear theory implies that equations that are to an order greater than one are applied to wave description. By way of analogy, first order equations always describe straight lines, whereas, higher order equations describe lines with increased curvature for every increase in power. Efforts to more accurately describe waves have applied non-linear theory to the description of waves. Using complex Boussinesq equations, non-linear wave theory relaxed the infinitesimal wave height assumption and allowed for wave harmonics to interact. These new models more accurately describe shoaling waves and contain information about wave motion that is necessary to explain wave driven sediment movement. However, these models still do not accurately predict wave motions once breaking occurs (Freilich and Guza, 1984). REF/DIF 1 applies weakly non-linear theory to simulate propagating waves. Weakly non-linear theory as applied by REF/DIF 1 is based on a Stokes expansion of the water wave problem and includes the third order correction to the wave phase speed. The wave height is known to the second order (Kirby and Dalrymple, 1994). This means that REF/DIF 1 uses second and third order equations to describe wave behavior more accurately than linear theory. A more detailed explanation of the strengths, weaknesses and operation of REF/DIF 1 is described in Appendix A. |
Thorton and Guza (1982) found that waves become "energy saturated" in the inner surf zone demonstrated by a strong wave height dependence on water depth. This criteria requires wave breaking when wave height equals 0.78 of the water depth or y = H / h = 0.78 where y is wave break criteria, H is the significant wave height, and h is water depth (Thorton and Guza, 1982). It is this criteria that REF/DIF 1 applies to determine where breaking occurs. As waves approach a beach, eventually they will reach this saturation point and break. Investigation of this gamma value and empirical evidence suggests that waves will break farther offshore when the beach has a lower slope because the critical 0.78 ratio will occur farther out at sea. On beaches with a steep shoreface the wave will break closer to the beach. On an "over-steepened" beach, such as El Segundo, the breaking point can been moved farther offshore by the installation of an artificial reef [See Figure 3.4].![]()
Methods: Modeling wave transformation over the surfing reefs required the input of a bathymetry grid, specification of initial wave conditions, and generation of model results using REF/DIF1. The bathymetry grids were generated in Matlab. The grid was 200 cells on each side. Each cell represented 5 meters on a side for a total represented area of 1 square kilometer. The baseline slope of the entire grid was 0.03. This was determined to be representative of the nearshore environment in El Segundo using the 1:40,000 scale Santa Monica Bay NOAA map [Chart# 18744]. At the kilometer scale the beach in El Segundo is primarily planar. On this planar shoreface the surfing reef was superimposed to create the model grid. The surfing reef is a V-shaped solid [See Figure 3.5] which is approximately 50 meters on a side and ranges from 3 - 6 meters in height. The reef is located in the center of the grid in the longshore direction and varies from 100 meters to 200 meters offshore. The distance offshore, toe angle, reef height, and nose angle are all variable parameters that can be changed each time a bathymetry is generated. ![]() Figure 3.5: Illustration of reef design used in the modeling exercises. |
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