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“Waves are… toys from God”

August 24 2009 | Surfing, Jim's Blog,
by Jim

The epicenter of my taste in surf films is Sprout. In other words, I love connecting with the sport of surfing through the lens of a painter. I suppose that is due in part to the realization that I'll never surf Teahupo'o. I will never do a rodeo flip (at least not intentionally).

Yet, Clay Marzo's film had me before it was released. Clay is a very gifted surfer who was recently diagnosed with Asperger Syndrome. This is close to home for me since my son is on the autism spectrum.

This blog is an exploration of Surfrider's mission statement: " and enjoyment of oceans, waves and beaches for all people..." In this case the key words are "enjoyment," "waves" and "all people." Those are the same words I might use to describe my son when we head down to our favorite beach, Georges, most weekends.

When I watched this film, I felt like all my worlds were colliding. Hearing the word "autism" in the context of the highest level of technical surfing both surprised and delighted me.

I loved seeing Clay's gift captured on screen so well. Kudos to all involved.

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