Wood fun"how much more trendy can you get than hand planting or riding alaias?"
It's about fun... remember?
I'm stoked at the renaissance we're seeing with music, art and craft. After decades of malaise and a one-size-fits-all mentality to board design... surfing is interesting again. It's fun again. I think some of us have forgotten about the simple joy we received when we first started surfing. All this stuff... all these shapes... are about rediscovering that pure, unadulterated, undiluted joy.
We hit Trestles last week before work and David Rey, our illustrious membership guru, paddled his log in and swam out with a food tray (thus forever dubbing him "Food Tray" Rey). Truth be told, the tray didn't work. But... I think David had more fun than anyone that morning.
Quit gnashing your teeth when you see someone paddle out on something you haven't seen before. Ask to borrow it and I'm guessing they'll comply.
The best surfer in the world is the one having the most fun