CHAD: With all those hurricanes brewing in the Atlantic, it looks to be a great fall for surf in Florida. What's great about surfing in Florida?
MIKE: Warm water and an incredible variety of wave conditions make Florida great for surfing. These variable conditions create a fun and solid training ground - ask Kelly or Lisa!
CHAD: Why is hurricane surf so exciting?
MIKE: On September 15, 1999, the 20 mile buoy was reading 19 feet at 10 seconds - that alone is exciting! Hurricane Floyd spared Florida with offshore winds, sunshine, and epic stand-up barrels at places that rarely break.
CHAD: Tell us a little about positives and negatives of hurricanes?
MIKE: From our selfish perspective, big clean waves are quite desirable. Hurricanes are huge wave making machines. For a storm tracking along the Gulf Stream, when the storm moves to the north, the winds shift to offshore. These conditions bring Florida some of its most fun and dangerous waves.
CHAD: What are some historical highlights of surfing in your area?
MIKE: Since the early 1960's, Dick Catri and many followers have surfed in this area of Florida. Dick surfed many spots for the first time and named several. The advent of short boards has enhanced surfing of Florida's predominant fast beach break. Surfing has grown in parallel with Ron Jons, "the world's largest surf shop" - now open 24 hours every day - 365 days a year!
The Ash Wednesday Storm of March 1962 was a deep low pressure system in the north Atlantic that sent 15 foot plus waves to U.S. shores from Florida to New England. A similar condition occurred with the Halloween 1991 Storm with 22 foot waves reported at R.C's in Satellite Beach. Some ancients still get a sparkle in their eyes when they remember surfing both swells. Most recently, Hurricane Floyd generated some welcome epic swell.
Sebastian Inlet, FL
Name: Sebastian Inlet
Location: Sebastian, Florida
CHAD: Where is your favorite local surf spot?
MIKE: Sebastian Inlet
CHAD: Why is Sebastian Inlet a special surf spot?
MIKE: This unique place works with waves from different directions with varying tide conditions. The north jetty is arched and interacts with waves to usually create three quick peaks immediately north of the inlet. First Peak is a fast pealing right, which usually draws the heaviest crowd when it's working. Southeast of the inlet mouth, the ebb shoal (sandbar) forms Monster Hole - with occasionally big pealing left walls and very big sharks.
CHAD: What are the biggest threats to Sebastain Inlet? Florida in general?
MIKE: At Sebastian Inlet, potential dredging from the ebb shoal or north beach could alter the site. At Monster Hole, jet ski cowboys jump waves much too close to surfers.
In Florida, increasing demand and competition for beaches may squeeze and further restrict areas for surfing. Shoreline structures usually create and destroy surf breaks; structures are increasingly proposed to address beach erosion. Beach restoration projects initially steepen our beach breaks to create a shore break closeout, but eventually create new sand bars.
CHAD: What do you think are the solutions for protecting surf in Florida?
MIKE: Surfing must become recognized as a legitimate and worthwhile use of public resources.
