Surfrider Foundation, MAKING WAVES, October 2003

MAKING WAVES, October 2003 issue: Table of Contents

The Power of One by Chris Evans

"Imagine a Forrest Gump of the surfing world. A person who inadvertently has had a hand in every significant event of the past 40 years…" Jason Borte, Surfline

Randy Rarick could be perhaps one of the most underrated influences in modern surfing. For four decades, he's been at the forefront of the sportas a competitor, a shaper, a world traveler, a journalist, a contest promoter, and yes, as a Surfrider Foundation member.

For several years now, Randy has quietly worked to provide Surfrider Foundation memberships to the world's top professional surfers via his Triple Crown of Surfing events in Hawaii.

Surfrider Foundation's Executive Director, Chris Evans, recently caught up with Randy to chat about surfing and the Surfrider Foundation.

Chris: You've been involved in surfing and the surf industry for a long time. What sort of changes have you seen over the years in terms of the sport's prominence and maybe standing in the mainstream culture?

Randy: I think what's really changed, is that if you think back to the 60's, especially the late 60's, surfers are considered sort of counter culture type of people. You have this surf bum image and it went hand in hand with sort of the whole hippie era. In the mid 70's, the advent of professional surfing legitimized it as a sport. Prior to that, it was just considered a pastime. In the last 25 years we've seen surfing go from an undesirable activity, to a sport that is accepted by the mainstream. That surf bum image has been replaced by this cool, athletic, fashionable image that is being emulated by snowboarders, skateboarders and everybody else.

Chris: Did you see this as a good or bad thing?

Randy: Both… I think we've lost some of the innocence. Some people think we've lost the soul of surfing because of the commercialization of it. But on the other hand, that commercialization has opened up surfing to many more people world wide that never would have been able to share in the experience. Sure, it made it more crowded and sure maybe it is a little more commercialized and not as soulful. But at the same time the whole essence is for people to enjoy the experience and now you have people worldwide, in places that you never would have imagined that are surfing, which is exactly why we are doing it.

Chris: Historically surfers have always seemed to possess an intrinsic infinity towards the environment. Given the cultural changes in the sport's aesthetic, do you think that this environmental mindset still exists?

Randy: I think if nothing else, people have become more aware of environmental issues. When you think back to the 60's, there was basically the radical few that championed this cause and they were seen as the tree huggers or guys that were on the fringe. I think what's happened now, with the expanding global nature of surfing, awareness of issues such as clean water and beach access has become much more prevalent. Chris: How did the partnership between Vans Triple Crown of Surfing and the Surfrider Foundation come about, and do you think it has been successful?

Randy: I've always been a strong advocate of the Surfrider Foundation. I actually paid a few years ago to become a lifetime member. Since I'm on the front line dealing with the pro surfers, I wanted to make it possible for them to learn and be educated; to find out what Surfrider Foundation is all about. By giving them a membership, it creates awareness with the top pros that might not otherwise have been forthcoming.

Chris: Have you received any feedback from any of the athletes?

Randy: I'd say at least fifteen or twenty of them mentioned to me in one form or another that they were really stoked that they were getting the information. They are being made aware of a lot of the stuff via the newsletter that otherwise they would have never known about, so the general vibe coming from the pro surfers themselves was it was very cool.

Chris: What do you see as the greatest environmental threat to surfers or other ocean sports enthusiasts today?

Randy: You know I think it varies from area to area. I think wherever there are a high degree of urbanization, there is usually water quality issues. Beach access is probably a huge issue as well. We're all surfers, and it doesn't matter where you live, you should have access to surf worldwide. The fact that some people are lucky enough to live at some private little enclave, like the Ranch [ed. notethe Hollister Ranch in Santa Barbara] is a classic example. In my opinion, that is a resource that should be open to everyonewhy should a few benefit and not everybody? The whole idea is to ride the waves. Here along the North Shore of Oahu, every single wave is accessible. There are no private breaks hereyou can drive up and surf every spot. Sure some places like Pipeline are going to get crowded, but those that want to go out there and sit with a crowd, they can do it. I think that in California, the limitations that some people place on letting the average surfer paddle out is really doing a disservice to the sport. It's really, really selfish.

Chris: A number of professional surfers such as Rob Machado and Kelly Slater have donated time and effort to various charities, including the Surfrider Foundation. Do you think that athletes have an obligation to give something back to the community?

Randy: By all means. I think any guy who's a top surfer, as in any other sport, is a role model. He should be using his position, using his public presence, to further whatever the cause may be, in this case, issues involving waves and beaches.

Chris: Any predictions for the future of the sport?

Randy: I think what we are going to continue to see is the constant growth of the sport. It's not going to drop off. Surfing represents a lifestyle that people want to emulate. You would be amazed at how many people there are who want to live this dream; want to live this life. It's getting out there in the mass mediaHollywood movies and surf magazines. People are discovering the secret thrill. I grew up in Hawaii, so for me it came naturally. But the secret thrill of being a surfer is something that most people just don't get. When they experience it and discover it, they latch on to it. They want to live it. I've been to places and seen a stoked kid pick up a board. I was in West Africa and I took a little local village kid in, put him on my surf board and shoved him into a couple of waves. The look that I saw on the guy's face made me realize exactly why I started surfing. The feeling of pure stoke is something that people all over the world should be able to experience at least once.