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| Ocean Friendly Gardens
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Conservation, Permeability, and Retention (CPR)
CPR - Introduction
How Much Water Runs Off Your Property?
Conservation
Alternatives to Lawns
Permeability
A comparison of Materials
High use areas
Medium use areas
Low use areas – mulches
Retention
Retention Basin
Swale
Infiltration Trench / Dry well
Biological Catch Basin
Mechanical Catch Basin
Alternatives to Chemicals
Fertilizers
Household Materials
Pesticides
Plants that Repel or Attract Insects
Common Household Products - chemical alternatives
CPR
Gardeners greatly affect the ocean, and we do so in two distinct ways. First, we influence the amount of water running off a landscape. Between 30% and 80% of an urban/suburban homesite is comprised of impermeable surfaces, and besides the roof, most of this area can be changed. And second we influence the quality of water running off our properties and landscapes. Rain falling into an ocean is not inherently harmful, it is the stuff attached to it that is. Fertilizers, pesticides, oils, cleaning solutions, and organic debris all runs off our landscapes during rain. These chemicals and organic substances are the culprits that encourage harmful algae and bacteria.
CPR stands for Conservation, Permeability, and Retention, and when fully employed, it has one of two outcomes: Water run-off is either eliminated or cleaned.
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HOW MUCH WATER RUNS OFF YOUR PROPERTY?
Total Catchment Area* ____________
Multiply by .55** ____________
Multiply by Average Rainfall ____________
* Total catchment area includes all imperious surfaces: roofs, driveways, and patios.
**Although there are .6233 gallons of water per inch of rainfall (per sq. ft.), at least 10% is lost to evaporation in Southern California, hence the .55.
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CONSERVATION
Properly watering, opposed to over-watering, has many benefits: It reduces the amount of dry season run-off, it reduces certain pest populations (like mold and mealy bugs), and it creates a drier landscape, allowing the soil to hold more rain water. Properly watering entails maintaining an efficient irrigation system, one with a Smart-Timer, low flow components (like soaker tubing), adjusting sprinkler heads to minimize overspray, and regularly checking the system for ruptures.
Tried of their lawn, this homeowner opted for a variety of ground covers. Three varieties of gazania, Geranium incanum, trailing rosemary, and Santa Barbara daisy are all in the picture above.
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Alternatives to Lawns
Lawns are notoriously bad for the ocean – not only do they require a lot of water, but the run-off they produce is loaded with fertilizers and herbicides. Instead of a lawn, consider these attractive alternatives:
Legend
A = Aggressive
E = Erosion Controlling and good for small slopes
W = Water Conserving
Trailing, Rooting, and Perennial Ground Covers
Botanical Name |
Common Name |
Notes and Needs |
Abronia spp. |
Sand verbena |
Native. E W |
Achillea ageratifolia, A. clavennae,
A. tomentosa |
Greek yarrow, silvery yarrow, woolly
yarrow |
A. clavennae is lowest growing. W |
Aster chilensis |
Wild aster |
Coastal native. W |
Aurinia saxatilis |
Basket-of-gold |
Can tolerate light shade. OK with poor
soil. W |
Cerastium tomentosum |
Snow-in-summer |
Sometimes short-lived. W |
Chamaemelum nobile |
Chamomile |
Tough. Can tolerate some shade. Not the
true herb chamomile. W |
Convolvulus mauritanicus |
Ground morning glory |
Good companion plant with yellow gazania.
W |
Coreopsis auriculata ‘Nana’ |
Tickseed |
Wonderful with dwarf plumbago. W |
Duchesnea indica |
Indian Mock Strawberry |
Can be invasive if well watered and fed.
A |
Dymondia margaretae |
Dymondia |
Tough. Tolerates traffic. W |
Erigeron spp. |
Fleabane |
Some native. Compliments gazania and
thyme. W |
Erodium reichardii |
Cranesbill |
Tough. Can tolerate some shade. |
Festuca californica, F. rubra |
California fescue, Creeping red fescue |
Native is drought tolerant in cool summer
areas. Does not grow well in poor soils. A E |
Fragaria chiloensis, F. californica |
Wild strawberry, sand strawberry |
Native. Cut back annually. Sun and shade.
W |
Gazania hybrids |
Trailing gazania |
Reliable and aggressive in soils in fair
condition. W |
Geranium spp. |
Cranesbill |
Some native. Tough. Some drought tolerant. |
Herniaria glabra |
Rupture Wort |
Low mat that can grow in filtered shade
too. |
Lychnis coronaria |
Crown-pink, dusty miller |
Tough, and surprisingly, can tolerate
some traffic. W |
Oenothera hookeri |
Hooker’s evening primrose |
Native and tough. Can be invasive. A
W |
Osteospermum fruticosum |
African daisy, freeway daisy |
Tolerates heat. Sometimes short-lived.
Cut back old growth. E, W |
Phyla nodiflora |
Lippia |
Tough. Can tolerate some traffic. Purple/pink
flowers. W |
Pelargonium peltatum |
Ivy geranium |
Dependable color. People friendly foliage.
E |
Potentilla neumanniana, P. x tonguei |
Cinquefoil |
Tough and versatile. Can tolerate some
shade. |
Sagina subulta |
Irish and Scotch moss |
Tough. Takes foot traffic. Can tolerate
shade. |
Stachys byzantina |
Lamb’s ears |
Can be tough and tolerate a little traffic.
OK up to filtered shade. |
Thyme spp. |
Thyme |
A number of low growing, durable species.
W |
Trifolium spp. |
Strawberry and White Clover |
If maintained, it is tough. Able to fixate
nitrogen, good companion plant. E W |
Tropaeolum spp. |
Nasturtium |
Can naturalize. Needs to be cut back
annually. A |
Verbena peruviana, V. pulchella gracilior,
V. tenuisecta |
Verbena, moss verbena |
Good combination with Oenothera. Cut
back every two years. W |
Veronica spp. |
Veronica, speedwell |
There is a species for every garden. |
Zauschneria septentrionalis |
Humboldt County Fuchsia |
Native that can grow into a dense mat. |
Zoysia spp. |
Zoysia |
Dense and durable. Good for traffic. |
Avid horseshoe players, the owners of this garden decided to restrict the lawn to only those areas regularly used. The fescue planted on the side of the lawn can tolerate foot traffic and is incredibly low maintenance.
Needing an area to train their dog, and living ˝ mile from
the beach, the owners of this property tore out their lawn and replaced it with
decomposed granite, which is not only capable of absorbing almost all the rain
water sheeting off the roof, but provides a surface suitable for dog training.
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PERMEABILITY
Increasing the permeability in a landscape has two crucial benefits. Permeable surfaces tend to slow the water sheeting over them, allowing harmful sediment to drop. And increasing permeability spreads the process of water infiltration over a greater area, not relying wholly on the retention area. Permeability revolves around replacing non-pervious surfaces with those that allow water, at least to some degree, to infiltrate into the soil. Some of the techniques used to increase permeability are redesigning driveways, rethinking the paths that lead around a house, and getting creative with patios. Below are some of the many alternatives to concrete and other impermeable surfaces.
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High and Multiple Use Areas
SURFACE |
COSTS |
INFILTRATION |
GOOD USES |
Brick |
Moderate to high installation costs;
low to moderate maintenance costs. |
Low to high, depending on spacing of
gap. |
Tight brick can be used for all residential
needs; loose brick, those with wider spaces, are good for areas
less frequently used. |
Decking |
High installation and maintenance costs.
Should budget replacing a lot of it every 15 years. However,
wood is a renewable resource. |
Moderate to high, depending on gaps between
planks and the surface below the deck. |
While expensive to install, decks can
provide a wonderful retreat in a garden; they can elevate, encapsulate,
and captivate a visitor. |
Pavers |
Moderate installation and low maintenance
costs. |
Low to high, depending on gaps and degree
of slope. |
Easily installed and repaired, pavers
have aesthetic versatility and come in a wide variety of shapes,
sizes, and colors. |
Porous Asphalt |
High installation and low maintenance
costs. |
Low to moderate. |
Good replacement for current asphalt
driveways. However, it is petroleum based and produces tainted
run-off. |
Porous Concrete |
High installation and low maintenance
costs. |
Low to moderate. |
Can be used instead of conventional concrete
anywhere around a home. |
Stone – Natural, Recycled, or Manufactured |
Low to high installation costs, depending
on the type of stone used and the base material. Low to moderate
maintenance costs, depending on the types of plants and materials
used to fill the gaps. |
Moderate to high, depending on size and
spacing. |
Not all stone has to be laid in sand,
but can be sunken into the soil instead, which is the best for
plants. |
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Medium Use Areas (like the part of the driveway that is driven on, but not parked on and the sides of houses)
SURFACE |
COSTS |
INFILTRATION |
GOOD USES |
Crushed Aggregate |
Low maintenance and installation costs.
Weeds can become a problem. |
High. |
Crushed aggregate is a common, all-purpose
surfaces in rural communities, but not urban; tough on bare feet
and children and not considered attractive. Pea gravel is better
on feet, but is not nearly as porous as crushed aggregate. |
Decomposed Granite |
Low installation costs, but more expensive
than similar materials, like pea gravel and mulches. Low maintenance
costs. |
Moderate to high. |
Excellent for garden paths, open areas,
and the sides of houses. DG does sticks to the bottom of shoes. |
Turf Block (grass pavers) |
Moderate installation costs and moderate
to high maintenance costs (if the grass has to be mowed and regularly
irrigated). |
Moderate to high. |
Turf blocks (concrete blocks with holes)
are filled with soil and planted. Sometimes the pores are filled
with gravel or cobble. Not ideal for everyday parking, because
of irrigation and maintenance demands. |
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Low Use Areas (such as garden paths)
Mulches
SURFACE |
COSTS |
INFILTRATION |
GOOD USES |
Bark |
Low installation and maintenance costs. |
High. |
Fine bark is good for walking surfaces,
and large bark for holding soil in windy, exposed areas. |
Gorilla Hair |
Moderately expensive for mulches; low
maintenance costs. |
High. |
Gorilla hair is a better walking surface
that most mulches. Preferable in moist and non-windy areas. |
Rock |
Expensive for mulches; low maintenance
costs. |
Moderate to high, depending on spaces
between rocks and surface below. |
River rock is not a good walking surface,
but perfect for windy, exposed areas. |
Tree Shredding |
If not free, then low installation costs;
low maintenance costs. |
High. |
Great for weed control. Will divert some
of the available nitrogen in soil, and plants may show signs
of deficiency. While it is not an ideal walking surface, it is
good for windy areas. |
This driveway stops water from getting into the gutter and ocean. Underneath each stone strip is an infiltration trench. The upper strip leads water to a retention basin (sunken patio). The lower strip leads water to a dry-well, which is an underground hole filled with gravel (see illustration below).
This parkway was designed with the ocean and community in mind: The plants are all native and drought adapted, watering is done with soaker tubing (no overspray), and the plants can tolerate a lot of nitrogen, which many dogs regularly supply. The pavers provide a safe and permeable walking surface for people loading and unloading cars.
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RETENTION
Retaining water in a landscape is an essential part of an ocean friendly garden: Retention gives the water an opportunity to infiltrate to an aquifer below. To some degree, almost every urban/suburban city depends on ground water for some part of its total municipal supply. Infiltration can directly contribute to a community’s water supply. Retention devices include retention basins, dry wells, and swales. However, there are communities, areas, and landscapes that can ill afford to load up the land with water. These areas may be prone to slides, or sit above areas known for erosion.
For landscapes that cannot afford to keep water on-site, the goal becomes screening the exiting water. Screening involves slowing the water to allow particles to drop, or running the water through a filtering device.
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Retention Basin
A retention basin does not have to look like one. Although this retention basin fills with water every winter, during the warmer months the owners regularly entertain guests in it.
In a normal storm event, this conventional looking retention
basin can handle the entire property’s rainwater.
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Swale
The water sheeting down the driveway is diverted to this
swale, which then leads it to a retention basin (pictured above). Because
of the swale’s porous nature, the water from a light rain (or car washing) never makes it to the basin.
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Infiltration Trench and Dry Well
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Biological Catch Basin
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Mechanical Catch Basin
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ALTERNATIVES TO FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES, AND COMMON HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS
Fertilizers
The nutrient-rich water running off fertilized residential properties poses a significant threat to the health of our ocean. Primarily composed of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and iron this runoff causes the rapid growth of harmful algae. Organic fertilizers are promoted over chemicals, because they build the soil, rather than degrading it, which in turn increases porosity and the ability of the landscape to hold more rain water – all of which decreases the chances of run-off.
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Materials in a home that can be recycled into fertilizers:
Aquarium Water: Straight from the fish tank to the garden, aquarium water is high in nitrogen and phosphorus.
Bone Meal: High in phosphorus, bone meal supports flower production, and helps deter some pests, such as ants. Clean the bones from steak or fish, dry them in a microwave, crush them with a mallet in a bag, and then spread and scratch the powder into the soil.
Catch / Infiltration Basin Sludge: Catch basins and retention areas will eventually fill with sediment and debris, and will need to be cleaned out. This sediment is loaded with a variety of nutrients and can either be mixed right into a planter beds or added to a compost pile.
Coffee Grounds: This abundant and often-discarded resource is a good source of nitrogen and can be used as light mulch. When added to compost piles, coffee grounds also help produce nitrogen-rich humus. If asked, local coffee houses will typically give a customer their used grounds. Coffee grounds should be composted.
Compost: Along with the debris produced from a landscape, an actively working compost pile can absorb a variety of oddities, such as hair and catch-basin sludge.
Eggshells: Containing a large amount of calcium and moderate amount of nitrogen, eggshells can either be scattered directly over a landscape, or put in a compost pile.
Feathers: While not an abundant resource unless there is a bird in a house, or the property has a cat, feathers are an excellent source of nitrogen. This resource should be composted.
Grass Clippings: The debris created from mowing a lawn is a perfect high-nitrogen fertilizer if it is cured in a compost pile first. Scattering freshly cut grass over soil does not work as well, because if it is not kept moist then the sun will chemically break them down and they will be blown off the property; on the other hand, if the clippings are kept too moist, they may produce an acidic barrier on top of the soil.
Hair: Human and pet hair is rich in iron, manganese, and sulphur. Hair is best used as an additive in a compost pile, but when used as mulch it can help deter larger pests, such as some rodents and birds.
Kitchen Scraps: Kitchen scraps of vegetables and fruits make some of the richest composts. Kitchen scraps are fleshy, moist, and loaded with nutrients, which speeds the decomposition process and time required to turn the scraps into compost and humus (which is the most decomposed part of a compost pile, possessing the most available nutrients). Tea bags, coffee grounds, crushed and dry dog food, and eggshells can be thrown into this mix. These high-activity compost piles do not require a lot of room, just an area comparable to an old bathtub; yet they provide an excellent source of readily available nutrients. Kitchen scraps are typically high in phosphorus and potassium, but low in nitrogen (unlike animal products).
Tea Grounds: An abundant resource in many homes and coffee houses. Tea grounds have a moderate amount of nitrogen and low amounts of phosphorus and potassium. This resource should be composted.
Wood Ashes: Completely cooled and dispersed straight from the fireplace to the garden beds, wood ashes are high in potassium, with minor amounts of phosphorus, which is perfect for flowering and fruiting plants. Ashes are a good addition to the compost pile.
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Pesticides
Pesticides, like other residential flotsam, are swept off our properties during periods of rain and over-irrigation. These pesticides pose a threat to aquatic life and ground water supplies. Yet every landscape has pests: unwanted weeds, bugs, and animals. How you perceive and manage these pests determines, in part, the amount of pesticides swept off your property. A gardener practicing CPR may be more lenient with some pests, may seek less toxic alternatives for others, and may change the composition of their landscape to deter particularly destructive and determined pests.
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Listed below are a variety of plants that either repel unwanted bugs, or attract beneficial insects, all of which reduces the need for pesticides.
Plants that either repel pests or attract beneficial insects:
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Botanical Name
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Common Name
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Type
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Care & Uses
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Achillea spp.
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Yarrow
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Perennials. Sun. W (some)
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Low to moderate water. Attracts beneficial
insects.
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Allium spp.
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Ornamental Allium, Chives
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Perennial bulbs. Sun to some shade.
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Moderate to regular water. Good protection
against slugs and ants. Used in spray to
control aphids.
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Angelica archangelica
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Angelica
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Biennial, fleshy. Sun to shade.
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Regular water. Good for attracting lacy
wings, lady beetles, and parasitic wasps.
Edible too.
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Artemisia abrotanum
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Southernwood
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Shrubby perennial. Sun. W
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Native. No to low water. Good for repelling
ants and aphids.
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Artemisia absinthium
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Wormwood
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Shrubby perennial. Sun. W
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Native. No to low water. Helps repel animals.
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Borago officinalis
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Borage
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Seeding annual. Sun to some shade.
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Moderate water. Deters tomato worms. An
edible that tolerates poor soils.
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Coreopsis spp.
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Coreopsis
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Annuals and perennials. Sun to some shade.
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Low to moderate water. Good bloomer. Attracts
beneficial insects.
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Coriandrum sativum
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Cilantro
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Annual. Sun to shade.
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Moderate water. Attracts beneficial insects.
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Eriogonum spp.
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Buckwheat
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Shrubby perennial. Sun. W
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Native. Low to moderate water (depending
on specie). Attracts beneficial insects.
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Garlic
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Garlic
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Perennial. Sun.
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Moderate water. Helps repel aphids. Good
general repellent.
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Lavandula spp.
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Lavender
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Perennial. Sun. W
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Low to moderate water. The fragrant varieties
help repel moths.
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Melissa officinalis
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Lemon balm
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Spreading, rooting, seeding perennial.
Sun to some shade.
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Moderate water. A good general repellent
for shady spots.
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Mentha pulegium
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Pennyroyal
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Creeping, rooting perennial. Sun to shade,
but not full shade.
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Regular water. Helps control ants.
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Mentha spicata
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Spearmint
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Spreading, rooting perennial. Sun to some
shade.
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Moderate to regular water. Helps repel
ants and aphids.
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Rosmarinus officinalis
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Rosemary
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Spreading, evergreen shrub. Sun. W
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Low to moderate water. Good all-around
repellent. Effective barrier against snails
and slugs.
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Sambucus mexicana
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Blue Elderberry
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Deciduous shrub or tree. Sun to some shade.
W
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Native. Low to moderate water. The leaves
and branches can be stuck down mole and
gopher holes.
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Santolina spp.
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Santolina
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Evergreen shrubs. Sun. W
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No to moderate water, depending on specie
and location. Helps repel moths.
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Tagetes lucida
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Mexican Marigold
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Perennials, but annual in coldest climates.
Sun.
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Moderate water. Particularly good at controlling
nematodes.
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Tagetes spp.
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Marigold
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Annuals and perennials. Sun.
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Moderate water. Helps repel whiteflies
and nematodes.
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Tanacetum vulgare
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Tansy
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Sprawling perennial. Sun.
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Moderate water. Thin out clumps annually.
Helps repel ants and flying insects.
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Tropaeolum spp.
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Nasturtium
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Sprawling, seeding annuals and perennials.
Sun to some shade. A, E
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Low to moderate water. Aphids are attracted
to it, and it can be used as a trap if cut
and thrown out. It repels whitefly.
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Common Household Products
A home is a haven, a refuge from urban ailments and stressors. Unfortunately, many of these private escapes are maintained in a manner that not only exposes the occupants to health risks, but the waterways, too. People use a variety of harmful chemicals in and around their homes. There are, however, alternatives that can be used to create a healthy home, community, and environment.
Chemical Alternatives
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Product
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Alternative
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Bleach
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Hydrogen peroxide
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Floor Cleaners
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1 cup of vinegar to 2 gallons of water
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Metal Cleaners and Polish
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Apple cider vinegar and baby oil for polish
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Mildew Remover
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A paste made from equal parts of lemon juice and salt
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Scouring Powders
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Baking soda or salt
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Window Cleaners
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1 cup of vinegar to 1 quart of warm water
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Wood Polish
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3 parts olive oil and 1 part white vinegar
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