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California Ratings
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Indicator Type |
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Info |
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Status |
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Beach Access |
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9 |
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8 |
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Water Quality |
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8
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5
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Beach Erosion |
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6 |
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- |
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Erosion Response |
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- |
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4
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Beach Fill |
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7
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- |
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Shoreline Structures |
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5 |
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2 |
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Beach Ecology |
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4 |
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- |
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Surfing Areas |
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10 |
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5 |
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Website |
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6 |
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California Beach Erosion
Erosion Data
As discussed in the following paragraphs, a substantial amount of information exists on coastal erosion in California. However, in many cases, the information is not up-to-date, is written for
a technical audience, is not disseminated to the public, or is focused only
on specific counties or cities. For all of these reasons, erosion indicator
information for the California coastline has not historically been readily available in a manner
easily comprehended by the public. There are some signs that this is changing, as evidenced by the reports and data summaries with Web links discussed below.
At least 4% of California's shoreline is critically eroding, according to
the report "State Coastal Program Effectiveness in Protecting Natural Beaches,
Dunes, Bluffs, and Rock Shores" (T. Bernd-Cohen and M. Gordon), Coastal
Management27:187-217, 1999. Living with the California Coast (G. Griggs and L. Savoy,
1985) put the estimate much higher, at 125 miles out of 1,100 miles, which
is over 11%!
According to CCC staff, California makes a distinction between coastal and
beach erosion, but both are treated the same in terms of legal status. Key
laws include the California Coastal Act, the Beach Act, and the Public Beaches
Restoration Act. The CCC does not track changes in shoreline position or
beach width, nor does it compile coastal or beach erosion data. Further,
an inventory of erosion "hotspots" or erosion hazard areas has not been developed.
However, there is some regional and site-specific data, typically developed
as part of permit applications. This type of information can be found at
the CCC, the California State Coastal Conservancy, and the California Department
of Boating and Waterways, but is not typically available online.20
Although coastal and beach erosion are not tracked in any systematic way
at the current time, a database for recording and tracking coastal bluff
erosion was scheduled to be assembled in 2003-2005 by the CCC through a NOAA Coastal
Fellowship Grant. When the database is assembled, it will first concentrate
on a 3-county area making up approximately 25% of the state's coastline.
The study area will cover the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary
(Monterey, Santa Cruz, and San Mateo Counties), with possibly some coverage
in San Luis Obispo, San Francisco, and/or Marin Counties. This will eventually
be expanded to cover the entire state. The database will be incorporated
into a GIS and was scheduled to be available on-line in mid-2005.21
In July 2010 it was reported that state and federal scientists were embarking on a new project to construct the most detailed map of the California coast ever assembled. The $3.3 million effort ($2.75 million funding came from California's Ocean Protection Council) will begin with researchers in an airplane flying back and forth along the coast shooting thousands of laser pulses (Light Detection and Ranging or "LIDAR") per second at the rocks, beaches and cliffs along the 1,200-mile shoreline from Mexico to Oregon, generating ultra-detailed 3-D images of the contours of the land in huge computer files. The mapping work, supervised by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, will start in August 2010 and is expected to conclude by December 2010, with the images posted to the Internet by summer 2011. California Coastal LiDAR Project Report.
It has been estimated that approximately 950 miles of California's 1,120 miles of coastline are actively eroding. These areas comprise 86% of the coastline.22
The California Beach Restoration Study (2002) states that 72% of the coast of California consists of
actively eroding sea cliffs.
According to CCC staff,
less than 10 miles have no dry sand beach at high tide. About 150 miles are
accreting (gaining sand) or stable.
California’s coastal erosion rates generally range from 0-42cm/year; however,
specific sites can retreat at much higher rates, such as Point Año Nuevo,
which retreats at an average rate of nine feet per year.23
The most recent coastal erosion study in California is Rates and Trends of Coastal Change in California and the
Regional Behavior of the Beach and Cliff System by
Cheryl J. Hapke, Dave Reid, and Bruce Richmond of the U.S Geological Survey. This study was published in the Journal of Coastal Research in May 2009. The abstract reads:
The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) recently completed an analysis of shoreline change and cliff retreat along the
California coast. This is the first regional, systematic measurement of coastal change conducted for the West Coast.
Long-term (120 y) and short-term (25 y) shoreline change rates were calculated for more than 750 km of coastline,
and 70 year cliff-retreat rates were generated for 350 km of coast.
Results show that 40% of California’s beaches were eroding in the long term. This number increased to 66% in the
short term, indicating that many beaches have shifted toward a state of chronic erosion. The statewide average net
shoreline change rates for the long and short term were 0.2 m/y and -0.2 m/y, respectively. The long-term accretional
signal is likely related to large coastal engineering projects in some parts of the state and to large fluxes of sediment
from rivers in other areas. The cliff-retreat assessment yielded a statewide average of -0.3 m/y. It was found that
Northern California has the highest overall retreat rates, which are influenced by erosion hot spots associated with
large coastal landslides and slumps.
The databases established as part of the shoreline change and cliff-retreat analyses were further investigated to
examine the dynamics of the beach/cliff system. A correlation analysis identified a strong relationship between the
geomorphology of the coast and the behavior of the beach/cliff system. Areas of high-relief coast show negative correlations,
indicating that higher rates of cliff retreat correlate with lower rates of shoreline erosion. In contrast, low to
moderate-relief coasts show strong positive correlations, wherein areas of high shoreline change correspond to areas
of high cliff retreat.
A September 2006 coastal beach erosion study for California is Historical Shoreline Change and Associated Coastal Land Loss Along Sandy Shorelines of the California Coast by the USGS. An important finding from the report concludes that the net shoreline change in the short-term (25-40 years) indicates that 66 percent of California´s beaches are eroding. Central California, which covers the area from Point Reyes to just north of Santa Barbara, shows the highest percentage of erosion. Long-term coastal shoreline change (using data gathered over the last 120 years) shows a trend of expansion, which is likely attributable to large scale coastal engineering and beach fill projects in Southern California, and to a high influx of sediments from coastal rivers in Northern California.
USGS also has completed an Historical Cliff Retreat assessment for California.
The USGS Internet Map Server site includes individual data layers compiled in support of the U.S. Geological Survey's National Assessment of Shoreline Change Program. Data layers include short- and long-term shoreline change evaluations, and historical and modern shorelines released via The National Assessment of Shoreline Change: A GIS Compilation of Vector Shorelines and Associated Shoreline Change Data for the Sandy Shorelines of the California Coast (OFR 2006-1251).
Average cliff retreat rates along the shores of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary range from 7 to 12 cm/yr (between 1953 and 1994). At the erosion “hotspots” area located at Opal Cliffs, Depot Hill and Manresa in Santa Cruz County the erosion rates range from 20 to 63 cm/yr.
The Heinz Report Evaluation of Erosion Hazards states that erosion rates are approximately 1 ft/year in Santa Cruz and San Diego.
The following regional summaries come from Living with the California
Coast.
This book, published in 1985, provides excellent maps and information about
coastal hazards. For Southern California, where more current information
exists, the summary provided here is augmented by information from several
detailed reports cited in the text.24
UPDATE: For those determined to live next to California's dynamic shoreline, the new and updated book Living with the Changing California Coast should be required reading. Written by Gary Griggs, Kiki Patsch, and Lauret Savoy, with contributions from more than a dozen other coastal experts, the book was released in November 2005 from the University of California Press. It is a completely revised and updated edition of the 1985 book Living with the California Coast, by Griggs and Savoy. The first part of the book provides a wealth of background information on coastal processes and hazards, with advice for home buyers, residents, coastal managers, and developers. There are sections on climate change, rising sea levels, coastal erosion, responding to coastal hazards, and coastal policy and legislation. The second part of the book consists of 12 chapters, each providing a comprehensive discussion of one geographic section of the coast.
The book includes nearly 300 photographs and 81 detailed maps covering the entire coast. The maps include hazard ratings, erosion rates where available, descriptions of coastal landforms, locations of seawalls and other types of armoring, and other useful and interesting information about every stretch of shoreline. The photographs include dramatic illustrations of damage to coastal structures, as well as extensive documentation of natural and man-made features along the coast. Many of the photos were provided by the California Coastal Records Project, which includes photographs of the entire California coastline.
Also see the excellent follow-up article, Understanding California's Shoreline (October 2006).
Northern California (Oregon Coast to San Francisco):
This stretch of coast is prone to frequent large swells and severe storms,
so many areas of the coastline experience severe erosion along the shoreline,
cliffs, and bluffs. Only a limited amount of erosion data exists for this
area, but the data show highly variable shoreline change rates. The erosion
rates vary between some spots with as much as 10 feet per year of beach loss
to spots with 7 inches of accretion per year.
Central California (San Francisco to Point Conception):
This stretch of coast is also prone to frequent large surf and severe storms,
and has many areas with active erosion along the beach, cliff, and bluffs.
There is much more data for this area, showing that the Central California
coast experiences less erosion on average than Northern California. Work
by Laura Moore for the city of Santa Cruz found that the bluff line was retreating,
on average, less than 1 foot per year. The erosion ranges for Santa Cruz
were found to be from 0 to 63 cm/yr with and average rate of about 10 cm
per year.25
Southern California (Point Conception to Mexico):
Living with the California Coast provides quantitative figures for erosion
in Southern California, but this information is dated compared to work noted
below.
In 1993, the Los Angeles District of the Army Corps of Engineers (ACOE) published
the Existing State of Orange County Coast report. The report thoroughly explains
the oceanographic and geologic processes affecting the Orange County coast,
and gives detailed statistics on longshore transport at their monitoring
stations.26 The ACOE has additional data on shoreline change for other areas
of Southern California. These documents are available at the ACOE district
offices.
In 1994, the California Department of Boating and Waterways and San Diego
Association of Governments produced a report titled the Shoreline Erosion
Assessment and Atlas of the San Diego Region. The report illustrates for
each part of the coast from Dana Point to the Mexican Border the threats
to coastal development, environmental resources, and recreational resources.
The report uses risk assessments to classify the threats to the studied resources.
While the report does not provide figures for shoreline change rates, higher
degrees of risk are associated with greater shoreline change rates, so the
high-risk areas indicate areas prone to severe erosion problems.27
A 1999 study of coastal hazards for the Federal Emergency Management Agency
(FEMA), Evaluation of Coastal Hazards, focused on two areas of California,
San Diego and Santa Cruz. The research for these areas is documented in several
publications. They describe specifics about the effects of El Niño on
bluff erosion and the influence of geology on erosion rates. These studies
measured erosion rates during the intense 1997-98 El Niño. In that winter,
storm after storm battered the shore, causing bluff failures, landslides,
floods, and enhanced cliff erosion. Confirming earlier studies by others,
these studies showed that erosion in California occurs episodically, not
at a steady pace. Although beach retreat and flooding pose a high risk to
the East Coast and Gulf states, bluff collapse is the greatest threat in
California. This is particularly true in counties such as San Diego and Santa
Cruz, where houses have been built on unstable sea cliffs.
The beaches around the Isla Vista (IV) coast adjacent to University
of California, Santa Barbara (UCSB), and Goleta Beach suffered dramatic
erosion during the El Niño events of 1982-83 and 1997-98 and never fully
recovered. Ongoing discussions among oceanfront property owners and Santa
Barbara County are examining a variety of shoreline protection alternatives
without an understanding of the long-term trends to the beaches in this
area.
A study by UC Santa Cruz graduate student David Revell analyzed a historical 70-year record of beach width changes
along a nine-kilometer shoreline segment from Ellwood Beach to Goleta Beach,
near Isla Vista, California. Results show an oscillation in beach widths as opposed to a long term
narrowing as predicted based on sand supply reductions. The oscillations of
beach width correlate with different phases of the multi-decadal Pacific
Decadal Oscillation (PDO) Index. During positive PDO phases of stormier and
wetter conditions, beach widths narrow while during negative calmer drier
phases, beach widths widen. Results also indicate significant variability in
the beach widths along study area. Ellwood beach widths remained the most
stable while UCSB and Goleta Beach exhibit the widest variability indicating
a high capacity for sand storage. Parts of the Isla Vista, UCSB, and Goleta
Beach shoreline show significant changes to beach widths, the majority of
these areas (59%) correspond to shore protection structures or other human
alterations. Significant effects of shore protection structures show impacts
associated with passive erosion or beach drowning, and placement loss. Of
all of the shore protection structures in the area, 77% of the intersecting
transects exhibit significant reductions in beach width. El Niños play an
important role in regulating beach widths with the narrowest beaches
occurring after the major events of 1982-83 and 1997-98. The 1982-83 El Niño
was the key event resulting in the largest beach width changes, especially
along UCSB and Goleta Beaches. For these two shoreline segments, the overall
beach area was reduced by 150,000 m2. Beach widths have never recovered to
pre-1982-83 levels. Beach widths following the 1997-98 El Niño did recover
to post -1982-83 levels. The volume of sand removed from the beaches during
the 1982-83 event was estimated to be around 385,000 m3. From 1993-1995, a
74% increase in the Santa Barbara harbor dredge records above long-term
averages provides evidence of a 1.7-km/yr (1 mi/yr) alongshore transport
rate of littoral sands.
Other important erosion studies include:
- Application of Airborne LIDAR for Seacliff Volumetric Change and Beach-Sediment Budget Contributions. Adam P. Young and Scott A. Ashford. Journal of Coastal Research. March 2006. Vol. 22, No. 2:307-318. The results of this study indicate that seacliffs provided an estimated 67% of the beach-size sediment to the Oceanside Littoral Cell, followed by gullies and rivers at 17% and 16%, respectively, during the period from April 1998 to April 2004.
- Coastal Erosion Mapping and Management, Special Issue #28 of the Journal
for Coastal Research, 1999. Gary Griggs, Laura Moore and Ben Benumof.
- The Relationship Between Seacliff Erosion Rates, Cliff Material Properties,
and Physical Processes, San Diego, California. Benumof, B.T. and Griggs,
G.B. Shore and Beach V67, #4:29-41. October 1999.
There is a great USGS Web site titled Coastal Erosion Along the U.S. West
Coast During the 1997-98 El Niño: Expectations and Observations
As referenced above, an exciting development in documenting coastal conditions and tracking
coastal erosion, coastal structures, and other changes in the shoreline is
the California Coastal Records Project. This project was initiated and carried
out by Kenneth and Gabrielle Adelman, who in 2002 flew the entire California
coast and took detailed low-level photographs. Since then, historical photos from 1972, 1979, 1987 and 1989 have been added to enable time comparisons. Finally, the coast was flown and photographed again in 2005 and subsequent years.
The California Coastal Commission created the Beach Erosion and Response
(BEAR) Guidance Document in December of 1999. This report provides assistance
to both applicants and reviewers of coastal protection projects. There are
succinct and informative descriptions of coastal environments and protection
strategies, the requirements for filing an application, and detailed information
about how the staff of the Coastal Commission handles applications for such
projects as seawalls, revetments, upper bluff protection and beach fill. This document is now available by request from the California Coastal Commission. To receive a copy, call the Technical Services Unit in the Headquarters Office (415-904-5240).
The Ocean Resources Management Program of the Resources Agency of California
prepared a Draft Policy On Coastal Erosion Planning And Response in 2001.
This document was intended to update the original 1978 Shoreline Erosion Policy. After
receiving and incorporating extensive comments on the first draft, a second
draft, titled Draft Review of California Coastal Erosion Planning and
Response: A Strategy for Action was released for public comment in March 2003. It does not seem to be currently available online.
The State of California is working with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
(USACE), representatives of local governments, and other stakeholders to
develop a California Coastal Sediment Management Master Plan (SMP)
to systematically evaluate coastal erosion and beach loss needs. On a regional
basis, the plan will focus on the inter-relationships between beaches, wetlands,
ports, and flood control facilities to determine how to maximize approaches
to managing coastal sediments and reducing beach losses. One vehicle available
to help meet the challenges of developing a Master plan, and to address coastal
erosion issues in general, is the California Coastal Sediment Management
Workgroup (CSMW), a statewide effort initiated by both the USACE and the
California Resources Agency in late 1999. The group's goal is to facilitate
regional approaches to protecting, enhancing and restoring California's coastal
beaches and watersheds through federal, state and local cooperative efforts. The SMP purposes include reducing shoreline erosion and coastal storm damages, providing for environmental restoration and increasing natural sediment supply to the coast, restoring and preserving beaches, and improving water quality along beaches. The SMP encourages alternative to shoreline protection structures, such as beach nourishment projects, sand bypassing projects and dam removal projects.
The CSMW maintains Web sites through both the USACE and the state Department of Boating and Waterways and holds public workshops to discuss issues
of concern.
The Southern California Coastal Water Research Project (SCCWRP) in its 2001-2002
work plan reports on a joint effort between SCCWRP and the US Geological
Survey's Marine and Coastal Division - Assessment Of Shoreline Change In
The Southern California Bight:
Wide sandy beaches provide a natural buffer against coastal hazards such
as
storms, wave action that may undermine cliffs and bluffs, and more long-term
impacts such as sea level rise. Wide sandy beaches are also a draw for tourism
and recreation. The loss of sandy beaches translates to an increase in hazard
for coastal development and its residents as well as the loss of recreation and
tourism revenue. Despite the critical nature of erosion, specific information
about the hazards of erosion and what is being done to manage it is lacking.
The goal of this project is to assess the condition of the shoreline in Southern
California and the extent of the erosion hazard, both long and short-term.
Year one of this three-year project will consist of data collection and assessment.
Year two will focus on assessing short-term erosion due to storms, such as
El Niño. Year three will focus on assessing long-term erosion in the
Southern California Bight.
A ground survey of the coastal zone within the Southern California Bight
will be conducted to identify coastal type, such as rocky, sandy, vegetated
or armored, and structures, such as seawalls, jetties, groins, breakwaters,
and piers. This inventory will be used as baseline data for the current condition
of the shoreline, and will be compared with a 1977 inventory completed by
the Department of Navigation and Ocean Development to assess how coastal
management and response to shoreline change has evolved over the last 20
years.
Available erosion data will be compiled in a database in order to assess
data gaps and methodologies. Numerous methods have been employed to determine
erosion rates, but it is still unclear as to how accurate and comparable
these methods are, making it difficult to compile local erosion data into
a regional synthesis. A goal for the second year of this project is to determine
whether the methods employed are accurate and what differing methods, if
any, can be combined to establish a regional assessment of shoreline erosion.
CCC staff note that California beaches have had a lot of fill from dredging
of harbors, construction projects, etc. California has also had sediment
declines from sand mining, flood control structures, dams, etc. Both factors
greatly obscure natural signals of beach conditions.28
Another useful source of information is the Web site of the Coastal Morphology Group at Scripps Institute of Oceanography. This site contains links to research papers on coastal erosion, sediment budgets, littoral cells, climate change, and more. See Living With Coastal Change.
The Heinz Center's Evaluation of Erosion Hazards, conducted for the Federal
Emergency Management Agency, studied the causes of coastal erosion hazards
and proposed a variety of national and regional responses. The study, published
in April 2000, concentrates on the economic impacts of erosion response policies
as well as the cost of erosion itself to homeowners, business and governmental
entities.
The study notes that The El Niño winter of 1982-1983 set the stage for
severe storm-induced erosion damage to structures along the California coast.
It caused over $100 million in coastal property damages, including the loss
of 33 oceanfront homes, damage to 300 more houses and 900 businesses, and
$35 million in losses to coastal public recreational infrastructure (Flick,
1998). The 1997-1998 El Niño again caused extensive erosion of Pacific
Coast beaches and left many cliff-top buildings increasingly exposed to storm-
and erosion-related losses.
California Sea Grant is another source of information on coastal erosion
in California. Their Web site includes a summary of work by Gary
Griggs, director of the Institute of Marine Sciences at the University of
California at Santa Cruz, and others noted above.
A NOAA Web site that has graphs of sea level data for many coastal locations around the country over the last 40 to 50 years and projections into the future is http://tidesandcurrents.noaa.gov/sltrends/sltrends.shtml
NOAA recently launched the NOAA Shoreline Web site. The site is a comprehensive guide to
national shoreline data and terms and is the first site to allow vector
shoreline data from NOAA and other federal agencies to be conveniently
accessed and compared in one place. Supporting context is also included
via frequently asked questions, common uses of shoreline data, shoreline
terms, and references. Many NOAA branches and offices have a stake in
developing shoreline data, but this is the first-ever NOAA Web site to
provide access to all NOAA shorelines, plus data from other federal
agencies. The site is a culmination of efforts of NOAA and several
offices within NOS (including NOAA’s Coastal Services Center, National
Geodetic Survey, Office of Coast Survey, Special Projects Office, and
Office of Ocean and Coastal Resource Management) and other federal
agencies to provide coastal resource managers with accurate and useful
shoreline data. For more information, contact Tara Miller (tara.miller@noaa.gov).
Erosion Contact Info
Lesley Ewing
California Coastal Commission
45 Fremont Street, Suite 2000
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 904-5291
Mark Johnson
California Coastal Commission
45 Fremont Street, Suite 2000
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 904-5200
Hazard Avoidance Policies/Erosion ResponseSee Erosion Response section.
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